Archives for October 2023

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Asset Allocation Isn’t Magic

Asset allocation is a dial that you can use to adjust the risk and expected return of the portfolio up or down. And, for the most part, that’s it. Anybody who expects more than that — anybody who expects any magic (additional return without additional risk, or a reduction in risk without a corresponding reduction in expected return) from clever asset allocation — is likely to be disappointed.

Let’s use PortfolioVisualizer’s “backtest asset allocation” tool to show you what I mean. (Note that their “backtest portfolio” tool is also of interest, but it requires you to use specific funds, which often leads to a shorter period of data available.)

Let’s start with a basic Bogleheads-style “3-fund portfolio” of 40% total US stock market, 20% total international stock market, and 40% total US bond market.

Here’s what happens when we substitute 20% of the total US stock market allocation with 20% REITs. (So now it’s 20% total US stock market, 20% international stocks, 20% REITs, 40% total US bond market.)

(Portfolio Visualizer link here.)

This is for the period Jan 1994 – Sept 2023 (because January 1994 is the earliest date for which Portfolio Visualizer has REIT data).

When I look at those two lines, the thing I overwhelmingly notice is how similar they are. Are they exactly the same? No. But boy they’re close. (And frankly this isn’t super surprising. We replaced stocks with stocks.)

No magic.

What if we use small-cap value stocks?

Here’s what happens when we substitute half of the total US stock market holding with 20% US small-cap value stocks, and then also move 1% from each of those two US stock categories into the bond fund, in order to adjust for the fact that small-cap value stocks are slightly riskier. (So now the portfolio is 19% total US stock market, 20% international stocks, 19% US small-cap value stocks, 42% total US bond market.)

(Portfolio Visualizer link here.)

This is for the period Jan 1987 – Sept 2023 (because January 1987 is the first period for which Portfolio Visualizer has data for total US bond market). Again, they’re very similar. If either portfolio is suitable for somebody, then the other portfolio would clearly be suitable also.

No magic.

What happens if we change the bonds? The chart below uses intermediate-term Treasuries instead of the total US bond market. And because Treasuries are slightly safer than a total bond fund, we’re adjusting the overall stock allocation up by 2% to keep roughly the same overall risk level. (So now the portfolio is 42% US stock market, 20% international stocks, and 38% intermediate-term Treasuries.)

(Portfolio Visualizer link here.)

This is again for Jan 1987 – Sept 2023, because January 1987 is the first period for which Portfolio Visualizer has data for total US bond market.

Again, nothing magical happening here. They’re so, so similar.

What about short-term Treasuries? Below is the chart if we use 43% total US stock market, 20% international stocks, and 37% short-term Treasuries. (Again bumping up the overall stock allocation ever so slightly, relative to the portfolio with intermediate-term Treasuries, to account for the fact that short-term Treasuries are a bit safer than intermediate-term Treasuries.)

(Portfolio Visualizer link here.)

This is again for Jan 1987 – Sept 2023, because January 1987 is the first period for which Portfolio Visualizer has data for total US bond market.

Overall, same conclusion.

Let’s do one last comparison. This time we’re using short-term Treasuries and a tilt toward small-cap/value. (The “comparison” portfolio is 21% total US stock market, 20% small-cap value, 20% international, 39% short-term Treasuries.)

(Portfolio Visualizer link here.)

I truly cannot imagine getting excited about the difference between the two lines on any one of these charts.

Admittedly, these were just comparison portfolios I came up with in a few minutes. You can test different portfolios for yourself. You could look at different periods. Some portfolios will look better than others.

But between two reasonable portfolios with similar overall risk levels, the return will generally be similar as well. Yes, one portfolio will always come out a bit ahead, but you can see periods where the other portfolio was ahead instead.

This is not to say that asset allocation doesn’t matter. But, at least in my opinion, it’s probably not worth spending a tremendous amount of time on — other than trying to figure out what overall risk level is right for you. Once you know that, there are plenty of different ways to get there. (I usually vote for whatever is simplest.)

And I would enthusiastically encourage you not to rely on any magic from having a clever asset allocation. (Asset allocation is a fruit salad, not a cake.)

Investing Blog Roundup: Spending Volatility in Retirement

If you’ve read about retirement planning at all, you’ve probably read an article discussing why low initial spending rates from savings are prudent, due to the facts that we don’t know how long we’ll live and we don’t know what investment returns we’ll get.

A point I’ve been trying to hammer home in my writing over the last year is that there’s a third reason why a low initial spending rate can be a good idea: spending in retirement isn’t entirely within our control, and a low baseline level of spending gives us more “wiggle room.”

T Rowe Price recently published a study that looks at the degree of spending fluctuation within households throughout retirement, as well as the sources of that spending fluctuation. (One point that will surprise many people: fluctuations in housing costs, rather than healthcare, are the primary source of spending variability.)

Other Recommended Reading

Thanks for reading!

Can an IRA Be Used to Buy an Annuity?

A reader writes in, asking:

“I’ve read numerous articles about the benefits of purchasing a SPIA with part of my assets to create a floor of guaranteed income (along with Social Security) in retirement. But I’ve never seen any discussion of the best funds to use to pay for the annuity. Can an annuity be purchased using traditional IRA or Roth IRA dollars? If so, what are the tax ramifications of each? Can I buy a joint life annuity to cover the lifetimes of both myself and my spouse with money from my IRA?”

Yes, a single premium immediate annuity (SPIA) can be purchased using traditional IRA or Roth IRA dollars.

If you read Internal Revenue Code section 408 (which is where we get the rules for IRAs), you’ll see that IRA can stand for individual retirement account or individual retirement annuity.

In every case I’ve ever seen personally, when IRA dollars are used to purchase an immediate annuity, the annuity is created as an individual retirement annuity. And that means two things:

  1. Whether traditional or Roth, the payments from the annuity are simply treated as distributions from the IRA and taxed accordingly.
  2. If it’s a traditional IRA, the payment from the annuity is considered to satisfy the RMD from the individual retirement annuity each year. (Point being, you don’t have to worry about calculating an RMD amount which might be different from the payment from the annuity. The payment satisfies the RMD by definition.)

Point being, payments from a traditional individual retirement annuity will generally be fully taxable, just as would be any other distribution from a traditional IRA. (If you have basis in your traditional IRA(s) due to having made nondeductible traditional IRA contributions, a pro-rata calculation would apply.)

And if it’s a Roth individual retirement annuity, payments/distributions will be treated as normal Roth IRA distributions. So they’ll be first considered to come out of contribution amounts, then converted amounts, and then earnings. And the tax treatment will be exactly what it would be if these amounts were coming out of a Roth individual retirement account. (This calculator/tool, as well as the article linked earlier in this paragraph, maybe helpful there.)

In theory, immediate lifetime annuities could be purchased within an individual retirement account, with the payments from the annuity made back into the IRA (rather than being distributions from the IRA). The tax code does not prohibit such. I’ve never seen such a thing in real life, so it doesn’t seem that many insurance companies offer this. I am aware of one person on the Bogleheads forum who has encountered such an annuity, but it’s definitely a rare situation.

Can a Joint Life Annuity (Myself and Spouse) be Purchased with IRA Dollars?

The short answer to this question is, yes, a joint life annuity that pays out for the longer of your life or your spouse’s life can be purchased with IRA dollars. One potential point to be aware of is that things get complicated if you also pick a period certain (i.e., the annuity will pay out for the longer of your lives but will also pay out for at least X years). You’ll want to read the rules in Treasury Regulation 1.401(a)(9)-6, to make sure the period certain does not cause any problems.

Investing Blog Roundup: iShares Defined-Maturity TIPS ETFs

If you want to know, in advance, that you’ll have a specific amount of purchasing power available on a specific date in the future, Treasury Inflation-Protected Securities (TIPS) are the tool for the job.

And if you want to know, in advance, that you’ll have a specific amount of purchasing power available each year for many years, a ladder of TIPS is the right tool for the job.

TIPS mutual funds, while they can be a useful tool, generally can’t do either of those jobs. That’s because TIPS mutual funds keep buying new bonds. So if you were to plan to sell your shares of the TIPS mutual fund at any specific date in the future, there’s no way to know what price you’ll get (because you’re essentially selling bonds prior to maturity).

Earlier this year, Allan Roth challenged the fund industry to implement a fund that could be used as a TIPS ladder. John Rekenthaler of Morningstar argued in favor of the idea as well.

And last month, BlackRock released a lineup of TIPS ETFs that can be used in such a way. They’re called iShares iBonds ETFs. (I hate the name due to the obvious potential for confusion with Treasury I Bonds. But BlackRock didn’t ask me, and the name is of course not the most important point here.)

The idea is that each ETF basically just buys bonds that mature in a specific year — and only that year — and then holds those bonds to maturity. And that’s it. So each ETF can essentially act as a stand-in for one rung of a bond ladder.

It’s a neat idea. I’m happy that they exist. I’d love to see BlackRock extend the lineup out beyond the current 10-year limit. And I’d really be interested to see a fund that actually implements a whole ladder for you.

Other Recommended Reading

Thanks for reading!

Should I Sell Bonds to Prepay My Mortgage?

A reader writes in, asking:

“We bought a home recently, when rates were high though not as high as they are now. Without having any idea of whether home prices and interest rates will decline or continue to rise, how does one determine whether it’s a worthwhile tradeoff to sell some or all of our bond funds to payoff, or pay down, our mortgage?”

Changes in the Home’s Value Don’t Matter (For This Decision)

Firstly, the decision of whether to prepay the mortgage has nothing to do with the price of the home.

Example: Bob borrowed $400,000 to purchase a $500,000 home (i.e., making a 20% down payment of $100,000). If the home goes up in value by $50,000, Bob’s balance sheet will now include a $550,000 home. And that’s true regardless of whether he prepaid his mortgage or not. Similarly, if the home declines in value by $50,000, it’s now a $450,000 home, regardless of whether he prepaid the mortgage.

If you bought a home, you now own that home. You will experience 100% of the home value fluctuations, even if you only have, for example, 20% equity in the home. Point being, the amount by which the home goes up or down in value is unaffected by the decisions you make about the mortgage. And in turn, the decisions you make about prepaying the mortgage should be unaffected by your expectations for how the home’s value will change over time.

Yield on Bonds vs. Mortgage Interest Rate

The comparison to make is the interest rate of the bonds you would be selling as compared to the interest rate of the mortgage. Specifically:

  • For bond funds, we want to look at the SEC yield.
  • For individual bonds, we’d look at the yield-to-maturity.
  • If the bonds are in a taxable account (as opposed to a retirement account such as a 401(k) or IRA), we need to calculate their after-tax yield.
  • Similarly, for the mortgage, we’re concerned with the after-tax interest rate (i.e., after accounting for any tax savings you get as a result of the itemized deduction for home mortgage interest).

As of this writing, Vanguard Total Bond Market ETF (BND) has an SEC yield of 4.82%. If you owned that ETF in a taxable account, we’d have to multiply by [1 minus your marginal tax rate] in order to find the after tax yield (e.g., 4.82% x 0.75 if you have a 25% marginal tax rate).

If your mortgage is from several years ago and has a 3% interest rate (which is likely less than 3% after accounting for the itemized deduction for mortgage interest), selling bonds that yield 4.82% in order to pay down a 3% mortgage doesn’t seem all that appealing, from a purely financial point of view. (Some people may still choose to do it, because eliminating the mortgage gives them psychological benefits.)

On the other hand, if your mortgage is newer, with a 6% or 7% interest rate, selling those 4.82% bonds does look pretty attractive.

A complicating factor is that interest rates change over time. If for some reason you are convinced that interest rates are about to fall or rise, that would have an impact on whether or not you should sell your bonds at this time. (Bond prices move in the opposite direction of interest rates. So if you are convinced that your bond values are about to rise or fall in the near future, that would be either a point in favor or against selling right now.)

Personally, I have not seen any evidence that interest rate movements are easier to predict than short-term stock market movements. So rather than making guesses, I prefer to make decisions based on today’s rates.

Other Tax Considerations

Another important factor is: what type of account is it that you would ultimately be drawing these assets from, in order to prepay the mortgage?

If you would be using assets from a taxable brokerage account, we want to account for the capital gains tax (if any) that you would have to pay as a result of selling the holdings in question.

If you would be using dollars from a traditional IRA, what tax rate (including 10% penalty, if applicable) would you be paying on the distribution? And how does that compare to the tax rate you expect to face in the future (i.e., whenever these dollars would come out of the account later, if you don’t take them out now)? The higher the current tax rate that you would pay is, relative to the future tax rate that you anticipate, the less desirable it is to tap this account for any reason, including prepaying a mortgage.

If you would be using Roth IRA dollars, would you be paying tax (or penalty) on any of the distribution?

Risk Considerations

One point that trips many people up is the idea that by selling bonds to prepay the mortgage, they’ll be increasing their financial risk (because the portfolio will now have a higher percentage allocated to stock). In most cases, that’s not true. In most cases, it will not be a significant change in risk.

When you buy the home, you increase your risk. In our example above (Bob uses $100,000 of cash and a $400,000 mortgage to buy a $500,000 home), he now has $500,000 additional dollars of exposure to real estate (risky). He has a new $400,000 liability (risky). And he has $100,000 less cash (also an increase in risk). He has increased his economic risk in three different ways.

But once he has bought the home, those things have already happened. He has already taken on all of that additional risk.

Selling bonds to prepay a mortgage doesn’t affect how much exposure you have to real estate volatility (see the beginning of this article). Nor does it affect how many dollars you have exposed to stock market volatility. What it does do is:

  • Reduce your liabilities (thereby reducing your risk), and
  • Reduce your safe assets (thereby increasing your risk).

Net change in risk: roughly zero.

People often latch on to the percentage change in the asset allocation. But that’s a distraction. In our example above, imagine that after buying the home, Bob’s portfolio is $1,000,000, of which 60% is stocks and 40% is bonds (i.e., $600,000 in stocks, $400,000 in bonds).

If Bob were to use all $400,000 of his bonds to pay off the mortgage, he’d go from a 60%-stock portfolio to a 100%-stock portfolio. If we just look at the percentage, that’s a huge increase in risk. But in reality, he still has exactly $600,000 exposed to stock market risk. He didn’t increase his allocation to stocks at all. We just have a smaller denominator in our fraction ($600,000 total portfolio rather than $1,000,000).

Selling bonds to pay down a mortgage does not typically change the household risk level by very much. It is, mostly, just a decision of interest rates (after accounting for the various tax considerations).

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