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Asset Location Fundamentals (Which Investments to Own in Which Account)

A reader writes in, asking:

“Would you please direct me to where I can find your advice on asset location? In particular, is a Roth, Traditional IRA, or taxable account the best place to hold an International Equity ETF?”

Asset location (as opposed to asset allocation) is the question of which investments should go in which accounts. For example, if your portfolio includes Roth accounts, tax-deferred accounts, and taxable accounts — and you want your portfolio to include US stocks, international stocks, and bonds — which thing should go in which account?

To back up a step, in most cases, a taxable account is not the best place to hold any investment intended for retirement (other than muni bonds). That is, almost everything is better in a retirement account than in taxable. So if all of a person’s retirement investments can be held in retirement accounts, they usually should be.

When there must be a taxable part of the portfolio (e.g., because the amount you saved/invested per year exceeded the annual retirement account contribution limits), it becomes a question of determining which parts of your desired asset allocation are most tax-efficient. Or said differently, “out of my desired asset allocation, which parts are the least-bad to own in taxable?”

Asset Location: Stocks vs. Bonds

Stocks are usually more tax-efficient than bonds (i.e., they’re less bad to have in taxable than bonds are, usually). That’s because dividends and long-term capital gains are usually taxed at lower tax rates than bond interest. However, the tax efficiency of stocks relative to bonds depends not only on tax rates but also on yields (i.e., how much income each pays). As an extreme example, a bond paying 0% interest would be quite tax efficient, as it would generate no annual tax cost at all.

Municipal (“muni”) bonds are an exception to the above, because the interest they pay is completely exempt from federal income tax. And in many cases, muni bonds issued within a given state will be exempt from state income tax within that state as well. That’s why fund companies often offer state-specific muni bond funds.

Muni bonds should never be held in a retirement account. Though whether you should own muni bonds at all (rather than taxable bonds) depends on the difference in yields between muni and taxable bonds as well as your tax rate. (Essentially, when looking at a muni bond fund, you want to calculate the equivalent taxable yield. Then determine whether taxable bond funds with a similar level of risk have yields that are higher or lower than that.)

Asset Location Among Stocks (and Stock Funds)

Stocks with lower dividend yields are more tax-efficient than stocks with higher dividend yields (because again, the less income something pays, the more tax-efficient it is). So if your stock holdings are split between “growth” and “value,” growth is generally the better of the two to hold in taxable.

REITs are a particularly undesirable holding in taxable, because they pay high dividend yields and those dividends are taxed at a higher rate than qualified dividends.

Holding international stocks in taxable allows you to take advantage of the foreign tax credit.

Asset Location Among Bonds (and Bond Funds)

As noted above, muni bonds may be the best choice for somebody who has to hold bonds in a taxable account.

Among taxable bonds, Treasury bonds are exempt from state income tax, which makes them somewhat more tax-efficient if you live in a state with income tax.

Also, the safer a bond is, the lower its yield will be, and therefore the more tax-efficient it will be. Therefore:

  • Bonds with higher credit ratings will generally be more tax-efficient than bonds with lower credit ratings.
  • Bonds with shorter duration will generally be more tax-efficient than bonds with longer duration.

So, taken together, the above points indicate that short-term Treasury bonds tend to be quite tax-efficient, relative to a lot of other taxable bonds.

Other Asset Location Notes

When you own a mutual fund in a taxable account, each year you have to pay tax on your share of the capital gains that the fund realized whenever it sold anything over the course of the year. As a result, the more frequently a fund sells its holdings, the more capital gains you’ll have to pay tax on each year. Point being, funds with low portfolio turnover are more tax-efficient than funds with high portfolio turnover. In addition, the higher the rate of turnover, the greater the percentage of the gains that will be short-term rather than long-term. And that’s bad, because short-term capital gains are taxed at higher tax rates than long-term capital gains.

Index funds, therefore, tend to be more tax-efficient than actively managed funds. (Index funds — especially “total market” funds — have low turnover, because the investment strategy of the fund is just to buy and hold everything in the index rather than regularly buying and selling different stocks/bonds based on the fund manager’s predictions.)

“All in one” funds such as target-date funds tend to be tax-inefficient, for a few reasons:

  • Their bond holdings tend to be tax-inefficient. They’re often a “total bond market” fund or something similar. Most people who need to own bonds in taxable would be better off with either muni bonds or by focusing on tax-efficient taxable bonds (such as short-term Treasury bonds).
  • Even if the underlying funds have very low portfolio turnover, the outer layer (i.e., the fund that owns the underlying funds) creates an additional level of turnover as the fund rebalances between the underlying holdings. And that creates a tax cost. If the fund-of-funds ever decides to do a wholesale switch from one underlying fund to another, it can create a major tax cost to shareholders.
  • They reduce the opportunities for tax-loss harvesting. When the portfolio is split up among US stocks, international stocks, and bonds (or split up at an even more granular level), there can be tax-loss harvesting opportunities created when any one of those components goes down in value. With an all-in-one fund, collectively the whole thing has to go down in value (rather than just one part going down in value) to create a tax-loss harvesting opportunity.

Asset Location: Roth vs. Tax-Deferred

On the topic of which assets should go in Roth and which should go in tax-deferred, the general principle is that the assets with the highest expected returns should go in Roth accounts. This is because Roth accounts have no RMDs during the original owner’s lifetime, so if you have the choice of allowing one account or the other to grow most quickly, it’s best to have the Roth account growing most quickly.

One noteworthy exception would be cases in which a Roth IRA (or a portion thereof) is actually intended for near-term spending (e.g., because of the ability to take contributions back out of the account tax-free and penalty-free, you’re planning to use it in the near term for a home down payment). In such cases, volatile holdings would not make sense for the account.

Investing Blog Roundup: Evaluating Variable Spending Strategies

A quick housekeeping note, with regard to my new book:

  • Please feel free to submit any follow-up questions that you think might be useful as future articles.
  • If you liked the book, I’d be super appreciative of a review on Amazon given that the book is very new still.
  • If you didn’t like the book for any reason, please let me know. As with any of my books, I’m happy to provide a refund.

When it comes to retirement spending, the most famous strategy is the “4% rule” in which you do not actually spend 4% of your portfolio balance per year, but rather spend 4% in the first year and then increase that dollar amount with inflation every year, regardless of portfolio performance.

And then there’s a multitude of variable spending strategies, in which you allow your spending to fluctuate in some way based on your portfolio’s performance.

Retirement researcher Wade Pfau recently wrote a two-part series about such variable spending strategies. In Part 1 he describes a framework for how to evaluate such strategies, and in Part 2 he takes a look at how a handful of the most popular such strategies measure up.

Other Recommended Reading

Thanks for reading!

New Book: More Than Enough

More Than Enough book coverAs of today, my latest book is available: More Than Enough: A Brief Guide to the Questions That Arise After Realizing You Have More Than You Need.

Among people who read personal finance books, many save a high percentage of their income through most of their careers. One thing that eventually happens for some such people is that they reach a point at which they realize they have not only saved Enough, they have saved More Than Enough. Their desired standard of living in retirement is well secured, and it’s likely that a significant part of the portfolio is eventually going to be left to loved ones and/or charity.

A similar thing can also happen for people simply as a result of the way that spending in retirement usually works. That is, early in retirement, you have to spend at a very low rate — because you don’t know what investment returns you’ll get, you don’t know how long you’ll live, and you don’t know whether you’ll have massive medical expenses later in life. Said differently, it often makes sense to plan for an outcome in which you get poor investment returns and live to age 105 in a nursing home. But most likely, that’s not what’s going to happen. As a result, Enough ultimately turns out to be More Than Enough, most of the time.

And that realization — that you have (or are at some point likely to have) more than enough — raises a whole list of new questions and concerns. Some of those are financial (e.g., how much can I afford to give away to charity during my lifetime?), and some are non-financial (e.g., how should I communicate my estate plan to my intended heirs?).

This book’s goal is to help you answer those questions.

For reference, this book was written largely simultaneously with my previous book (After the Death of Your Spouse), and it actually shares some of the same material (specifically, some of the material about trusts, working with attorneys, and working with financial planners).

The book’s table of contents is as follows:

Part One: Non-Financial Considerations (What’s the goal? And why?)

1. Do You Have More Than Enough?
2. Who Gets the Money?
3. Talking with Your Kids or Other Heirs

Part Two: Financial Considerations

4. Giving and Spending During Your Lifetime
5. Learning to Spend and Give More
6. Impactful Charitable Giving
7. Impactful Investing
8. Reassess Your Asset Allocation
9. Trusts
10. Asset Protection

Part Three: Tax Strategies

11. Qualified Charitable Distributions
12. Donating Appreciated Taxable Assets
13. Deduction Bunching
14. Donor-Advised Funds
15. The Roth Question(s)
16. (State) Estate Taxes
17. Developing a Workable Plan

Part Four: Finding Professional Assistance

18. Working with an Attorney
19. Working with a Financial Planner

Conclusion: Mission Accomplished. Now What?

Afterword: Our Most Limited Resource

If you think the book would be helpful to you or to a loved one, I would encourage you to pick up a copy. (Print version here, Kindle version here.)

What Comes After Financial Independence?

Among people who read personal finance books, many save a high percentage of their income through most of their careers. One thing that eventually happens for some such people is that they reach a point at which they realize they have not only saved "enough," they have saved "more than enough." Their desired standard of living in retirement is well secured, and it’s likely that a major part of the portfolio is eventually going to be left to loved ones and/or charity. And that realization raises a whole list of new questions and concerns.

This book’s goal is to help you answer those questions.

More than Enough: A Brief Guide to the Questions That Arise After Realizing You Have More Than You Need

Topics Covered in the Book:
  • Impactful charitable giving
  • Talking with your kids or other heirs
  • Qualified charitable distributions
  • Deduction bunching
  • Donor-advised funds
  • Trusts
  • Click here to see the full list.

Investing Blog Roundup: Retirement Spending Flexibility

Much of retirement spending research — as well as many financial planning programs — assume that a retiree household will keep spending the same (inflation-adjusted) amount each year throughout retirement. But common sense tells us that retirees probably would not keep spending the same amount, regardless of whether the portfolio is growing quickly, shrinking quickly, or holding steady.

David Blanchett highlights a recent survey of 1,500 defined contribution (DC) retirement plan participants between the ages of 50 and 70, which found that respondents were much more capable of cutting back on different expenditures in retirement than the conventional models suggest. Blanchett writes, “For example, only 15% said a 20% spending drop would create ‘substantial changes’ or be ‘devastating’ to their retirement lifestyle, while 40% said it would have ‘little or no effect’ or necessitate ‘few changes.'”

And when you account for that flexibility, an assortment of financial decisions surrounding retirement need to be adjusted. The decisions that make sense for a household that intends to never adjust their spending (other than to match inflation) are different than the decisions that make sense for a household that has spending flexibility.

Other Recommended Reading

Thanks for reading!

HSA Contributions: Effect on FICA Tax and Social Security Benefits

A reader writes in, asking:

“On the subject of social security, extremely belatedly I realized my ‘catchup’ strategy of max deferral to traditional 401(k), HSA, and sometimes traditional IRA impacts my social security benefits.

Have you looked at this at all, is there a strategy for deferrals that would take impact on social security into account? By this point the ship has sailed for us (I think), but maybe it’d be beneficial to others to keep this in mind or understand the trade offs.”

To back up a step, the effect this reader is asking about (i.e., contributions reducing your FICA tax and therefore potentially reducing your ultimate Social Security benefit) is specific to HSAs — and it only applies when contributing as a payroll deduction.

That is, contributions to a tax-deferred 401(k), contributions to a traditional IRA, and contributions made from a checking account to an HSA will all reduce your adjusted gross income (and therefore taxable income), but they do not reduce the amount that shows up in Box 3 of Form W-2 (“Social Security wages”). And they will not, therefore, reduce your ultimate Social Security benefit.

For contributions that you make to an HSA on a pre-FICA-tax basis (i.e., contributions made as payroll deductions, rather than money going from your checking account into an HSA), yes, they do reduce your Social Security wages for the year. And they will therefore reduce your ultimate Social Security benefit, unless a) the reduced amount of Social Security wages for the year is still above the limit ($160,200 for 2023) or b) you still have 35 other years of maximum taxable earnings.

Many people though (in particular, people with higher earnings histories) will actually find the net result to be positive. That is, the taxes saved are likely to be more valuable than the reduction in ultimate benefit. Specifically, that’s most likely to be true for anybody whose 35 highest years of (wage-inflation-adjusted) earnings will ultimately put them above the second “bend point” in the PIA formula. (In today’s dollars, that would require about $2.8 million in wage-inflation-adjusted earnings during those 35 years — an average of about $81,000 of earnings per year over 35 years, in today’s dollars.)

There is a bit more to it than that just earnings history though. For example, the greater the number of people who will receive a benefit on your work record, the more detrimental a smaller benefit would be. So, for example, somebody whose spouse did not work for pay and who has one or more adult disabled children would be more likely to find it advantageous to pay the additional Social Security tax, relative to another person with the same earnings history.

Want to Learn More about Social Security? Pick Up a Copy of My Book:

Social Security cover Social Security Made Simple: Social Security Retirement Benefits and Related Planning Topics Explained in 100 Pages or Less
Topics Covered in the Book:
  • How retirement benefits, spousal benefits, and widow(er) benefits are calculated,
  • How to decide the best age to claim your benefit,
  • How Social Security benefits are taxed and how that affects tax planning,
  • Click here to see the full list.

A Testimonial from a Reader on Amazon:

"An excellent review of various facts and decision-making components associated with the Social Security benefits. The book provides a lot of very useful information within small space."

Investing Blog Roundup: Treasury Interest from Mutual Funds and ETFs (Avoiding Unnecessary State Income Tax)

Interest from Treasury bonds is exempt from state income tax, and that’s just as true for interest from Treasury bonds held by mutual funds that you own. But as Harry Sit points out this week, the 1099-DIV the brokerage firm sends you doesn’t tell you how much of the dividend distribution from a fund is from Treasury bond interest. If you don’t go look it up yourself, you can end up paying unnecessary state income tax.

Other Recommended Reading

Thanks for reading!

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